I Understood Her
I feel behind on posting this winter, and my photo back log reflects that. Enjoy a couple of random holiday snaps, as well as a photo of pantry stocking by canning beans, and a sugaring photo from the archives.
Early morning beside the woodstove, hot coffee, Scout beside me tucked under a blanket. He plays a dramatic hand when Adam leaves this early, he knows what it means. Several days until they reunite. He turns on all the sulky behavior so that Adam may feel extra disappointed to be leaving. As for me staying behind, I’m a good friend for him, but can’t hold a candle to the fun Adam provides. It’s not easy playing second fiddle, but I understand.
We are modestly expanding our maple sugaring efforts this year, one hundred taps vs our standard sixty. It’s still small potatoes, but we prefer it that way. I guess you could say that we fall into the camp of sugarmakers who believe a sustainable sugaring culture is one that includes more folks sugaring on a small scale, rather than fewer farms operating large scale sugar bushes with miles of disposable plastic tubing winding through native land, and vacuum systems pulling more than trees would naturally give. It’s not that simple of course, with considerations being made for the difficulty in earning a living rurally, and how sugaring higher yields provides much needed income for folks. But it is also true that there are massive beyond comprehension operations, set up with investor money from far away lands, that indeed demonstrate rapacious practices with not enough regard for the trees and the land on which they dwell.
For our purposes, we are content with an operation that produces enough syrup for our supply, gift giving, trade, and a small amount for sale. Given our scale and approach, we are not considered part of the sugaring industry, but we are part of the sugaring culture. Like a lot of small-timers, we worry about the direction commercial sugaring has taken, how the trees will respond to vacuuming over time. We worry about the volume of plastic tubing that is now used. Plastic that has to be replaced too often because squirrels love to chew it up.
Here is something I read a few years back, written by another small-scale sugarmaker:
“Andy’s in The Chronicle talking about how staying small has helped us 1) preserve the quality of our maple and 2) remain viable in a time when Sweet Tree are expanding to one million taps and pricing many small sugarmakers out of the market. The article starts with this fact: In 2015, Vermont produced 1.3 million gallons of syrup - double what we produced in 2008. What it doesn’t say is that Vermont made over 5 million gallons of syrup in the early 1900’s - before chainsaws, tractors, pipelines, and reverse osmosis systems. Back then, everyone boiled sap - everyone was small-scale, and everyone participated in the culture. Maybe the answer to meeting the growing demand for syrup isn’t thousands of new taps, it’s thousands of new sugarmakers. Small farms will feed the world.”
I’ve probably shared the above excerpt before, but it is worth sharing again as a reminder to not always view something such as maple syrup as an automatically warm and fuzzy venture. Like most things humans lay their hands on, it gets complicated. Know the story of your syrup, and how it has traveled from tree to bottle.
Given all that, it feels kind of heartwarming to add forty taps this year. Hardly an expansion by industry standards, but we’re not part of the industry. Forty new taps will mean a little more surplus in case next year offers low yields, extra for gifting and trade, and a some to sell.
I found our new to us buckets and lids on eBay, from the same seller I’ve bought all of our buckets from over the years. She is located a few towns north of us on the Canadian border. Given that we are now only thirty minutes away and not four hours, I asked if we could pick up our purchase in person to save on shipping. She thought that was fine. I’ve long held a vision in mind of this woman: in my imagination she is an eighth generation northern Vermont farmer and sugarmaker; a former bucket-user who’d finally found a way to make something in her life easier, and switched to plastic line systems. Even though she’d used draft horses to haul sap out of the woods, the labor of emptying sap buckets from tree to horse drawn sled added up. Her shoulders and back could finally enjoy a little relief, a short-lived measure of physical preservation that would soon enough be expended during haying season. Ever industrious, she began selling off her inventory of old supplies. She sold the buckets in lots of twenty, and in time would earn a nice penny given the growing popularity of backyard sugaring.
A bit of correspondence back and forth regarding pickup soon had me imagining a different sort of woman. I can’t describe it exactly, but she no longer fit the Carhartt-wearing-cow-milking-wood-splitting persona I’d conjured up. The woman I was messaging with seemed incredibly detailed oriented, and overly concerned about weather inhibiting our travel. One message asked if we were okay driving in snow, and another asked if driving in the cold would be too much for us. And yet another message inquired about confirmation of pickup, even though I’d already paid for the buckets and confirmed pickup twice in weather related messages (this all took place within 24 hours). A new vision was forming, one of a person who liked to know exactly what was happening and when. A person who left no stone unturned and was probably used to dealing with folks less conscientious about schedules and such.
On the morning of pick up, we pulled into the driveway of a home located downtown on a lot appearing not much bigger than the house itself. No sugarbush in sight. Heck, no land or farm of any kind in sight. The driveway ran parallel to the road, and provided the only buffer between traffic and the house itself. Very tight quarters. As we parked, I noticed how clean the windows were in her home, and the gold painted knick-knacks lining their interior. They, too, sparkled. Colorful, gilded tchotchkes, perhaps tacky in the eyes of some, but not a speck of dust or fingerprint to be found. They glistened in the morning light. Then I saw the license plate on her truck: Quebec. Things were beginning to make sense. Now I had a sense of who this woman was.
We parked, stepped outside, and she promptly emerged from the front door. Her hair freshly curled, outfit stylish and tidy, jewelry well appointed, and she had a bit of makeup on. Then she spoke, and I could hear the voice of every Eagle Lake aunt, cousin, and grandmother come through her. The image I’d created of a Vermont farmer was a distant memory.
It turns out she divides her time between Quebec and this in-town location on the Vermont side of the border, though I cannot guess why her residency is arranged like this, and her swift interaction indicated no interest in getting to know one another. No, no, our appointment was at 10:30 and there was no reason for it to linger past 10:35. I understood her to a T. I come from people just like her. If your dinner invitation says to arrive at 5:00, you best do that because dinner will be on the table no later than 5:15, the meal enjoyed and conversation shared, then everything cleaned up with dishes washed, dried, and put away no later than 6:00 (my sister will text me after reading this and tell me I’m being generous with those time estimates).
This woman did share that she is a buyer/seller of used sugaring supplies, with her inventory coming from Canada, but it is "getting harder and harder to find goods to resell."
We loaded our supplies into the back of the truck, and drove off by 10:35. But the pick-up hockey game on the pond across the street pulled us in for viewing. My husband is one of those guys who will play any sport, but will only sit down to watch one. He’d already played twice that week, yet pausing to take in the game we stumbled upon was an obvious choice.
The calendar tells us we’re still about six weeks away from sugaring, but steps are being taken now to prepare. Gear is in place, sugarhouse moved to it’s new spot, and camp roads cleared of snow so that we may access the woods with greater ease (more specifically, so that I may access with greater ease on the days I am here alone). I think this relatively mild winter has us chomping at the bit a little early, add to that the steady return of light in the sky, and one can’t help but feel winter loosening her grip. We are not quite there, of course, but there is something in the air.